Starting our day in a walled city

Take Oktays advice.  Hit it early and get out.  We enjoy our first traditional Europeon breakfast of the trip.  And if you have traveled to Europe you know what we mean.  Meats, cheese, boiled eggs, cucumber, tomatoes, more cheeses, breads, jams, coffee, tea, juice, and cereal.  The elderly lady is so sweet, and gets us off to the market, full and smiling.  

We walk the market, and shops.  Oh the amazing things to buy.  Traditional german items.  lace, wool, ornaments, steins, nutcrackers, wooden ornaments,  coo-coo clocks, nativity scenes, so much to choose from.  We mark many things off the list.  Next up more sight seeing! 

We wander the town, before coming on St Jakobs Kirchel.  Amazing church from 14th century.  There is a statue as we arrive, that is St James, also known as Santiago in Spanish.  His remains are entombed in the cathedral of Santiago de Compostela in Spain.  The medieval pilgrimage route the Camino de Santiago passed through here.  The status is relatively modern for what the church has to offer inside.  On the main floor of the church is is breathtaking to see the extremely large stain glass windows, each telling a different story of Mary and Jesus.  There is also an interesting wooden boat known as the Christmas Boat. The Christmas message represented by the manger of Bethlehem is connected with a boat on its way to the shores of time. These germans sure know how to carve wood, with precision and beauty.  

After strolling the main area, upstairs, is the scene stealer.  In an upstairs chapel shared with a more modern pipe organ, you are met with a real beauty.  There is a 500+ year old, 35+ foot carved alter.  The piece is amazing, and the artist is referred to as the Michelangelo of Germany.  He also was working on this piece at the same time Michelangelo was working on his masterpiece.  This is a well worth a break from the market.  Meet back up with Chris for more touring.  Another place worth spending our euros was the Town Hall Tower.  Although a bit claustrophobic and tight, the 200+ step  climb gives you a panoramic, and spectacular view of the walled city.  This inspires us to grab a bite and do the wall walk.  The Fitbit is trackin
steps today. 

A couple of biers, and the longest bratwurst you have ever seen...

and we head to the wall.  Another good decision.  The 3k walk gives you more history of the city, views of the surrounding area, and idea of what it meant to outsiders.  Finish the walk, back to the hotel.  Back to market, for warm cherry beer, better than it sounds, and you can add a shot of brandy for 1eu.  The music is alive with tourists, locals (you know them because they are drinking the Gluewein from what looks to be cups from their kitchen) musicians, laugher, and merriement.  We enjoy live music from a santa playing trumpet, a trio singing more opera style, a brass band, and another santa with a doggie on an accordion.  You can feel the joy throughout the market square.  We grab another warm beverage and find a cozy cubby to people, watch and take it all in.  We know we are one of the lucky ones to have this trip.   We begin to do more strolling, and come across a tailor.  Should we get a lederhosen and durndell for Oktoberfest in US?  well for 900 eu each, I guess not this trip.

We stop in for dinner at Weinstrube zum pulveer.  they are all full for the night, but our waiter, fits us in. This place is super cozy, from the ornate wooden chairs, to the dark wood, this feels like an ancient wine bar.  It is beautiful and welcoming.  Franconion cheese soup in a homemade rye bowl for Trish (Chase and Dawn were right, so delicious) and Game Goulash w/Spatzle, red cabbage and cranberries for Chris.  Although a wine bar, Schwarzbier is the choice to wash it all down.  Back to stroll the walled city, one more walk through of the market, and to end the night, the local favorite, Schneeballen.  

It was a lovely time in Rothenburg.  Couple of quick stops in the morning and we will continue on our german journey!  Auf Wiedersehen!

Rothenburg ob der tauber

It took a couple of train connections, 2.5 hours ( Munich to Ansbach, Ansbach to Steinach, Steinach to Rothenburg) and in the rain, with no cabs to be found, to then find one taxi that is driving a guest, back for a second guest, and will be back in 10 (he actually uses his digits on both hands to tell us) for us.  but as he does return, and takes us to the walled city,  there is no question it will be worth it.  

Rothenburg seems to be a web of cobbled streets, little brightly colored houses , and towered walls, and is impossibly charming.  This town is the king of medieval german cuteness.   

We check in to and meet equally charming Hotel am Sieberstrum and Oktay.  He asks our names, we ask if he needs copies of our passports.   His response, "why, I have your money, why do I care if you are miss warnken"?  Fair enough.  He gives us a bit of advice for the evening and weekend.  

Tonight - 

"Walk up to the square, the christmas markets will be closing soon.  Enjoy our city tonight, walk around see the shops and the meet the people.  Tonight you must take the Night Watchman's tour, tomorrow it will be sold out.  

Tomorrow, breakfast is served, then you must go immediately to the town.  Get your shopping done first thing then you must get out of the square.  You must not be there from 11 am - 4 pm.
 it will be crowded with the tourists, shoppers, tour buses.  go out, take a the walk on the wall,

get outside of the wall.  then you come back and enjoy the town again." 

Oktay is charming, the hotel is charming, the three flights of stairs, tiny hallways, stairways and low ceilings less charming.  Good thing the luggage is equipped as backpack. Top floor (room 13)! We unpack and get dressed for an evening at the market.  We shall take Oktays advice. 

We walk up to the square, our hotel could not be more perfect.  it is charming, convenient, small, and the owners are fantastic.  SCORE!

Gluewein for Trish, Bier for Chris, and a waffle to share.   We wander around, and get our barring then off to the tour.  We arrive, and chat with the Nebraska four.  The Alpha thinks our drinks for the tour are a great idea.  Trish lets them know that that has been her motto since arriving in Germany.  They think it sounds like a good motto.  She has a great story of how they traveled to a small town in Germany.  Her mother had received a postcard(s) from a cousin while visiting their grandmother in Germany.  She had the name of the town, and the post cards.  she went, found the exact area and buildings from the postcard, as well as some of the things mentioned in the message from her mothers cousin.  they went to inn, from the post card, and were the only ones there.  they were treated like royalty.  food and drink kept coming all evening.  what a great story.  we enjoy our night chatting with them, and waiting for the tour. 

The tour, although slightly cheesy, is well worth it.  a great way to hear some of the history of the city from the watchman (cross between gene wilder and robert plant), as he lights his lamp and takes us on his rounds.  he tells us gritty tales of the medievil Rothenburg  We learn some entertaining history, get a feel for what makes Rothenburg the city it is today, while enjoying wine, well worth 7euros.

We call it a night, and plan for an early morning Saturday.